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Now that flood season is upon us, AIArchitect
has received requests for information about cleaning up after a flood.
The following tips are exerpted from AIA North Carolina's "Recommendations
and Procedures for Cleaning out a House or Business Following a Flood"
report, which the chapter offers as a public service. For the full report,
visit www.aia.org, and
search for "flood procedures."
General
After a flood, time determines the extent of damage to structural
elements. If water has been in the building more than a few hours, the
damage and amount of material that will need to be removed will be extensive.
Gypsum board on walls and ceilings, and insulation under floors, within
walls, and above ceilings become damaged beyond repair and must be removed
to minimize further damage to the overall structure.
It is absolutely necessary to initiate the drying process throughout
the structure as quickly as possible. Cross ventilation is the most effective
way to promote drying out of the interior. To get maximum ventilation,
open all doors-exterior, interior, and closet. Supplement air movement
with fans and air-conditioning systems, but do not use heaters, which
can increase humidity.
Keep the structure well ventilated until the interior materials
are completely dry. If extensive soaking has occurred, test for dryness
with a moisture meter (sold in paint stores).
Before clean-up proceeds
Get a tetanus shot if your vaccination is not current. (Check with
the local health department for more information.)
Before entering the building, be certain that the electricity has
been turned off. (If power is still on immediately switch the main breaker
in the electrical panel to OFF.) Verify that gas-burning appliances are
off and that no gas is leaking out of appliances or heaters.
Do a thorough walk-through of the structure, carefully checking
in all closets, corners, cabinets, drawers, and attic spaces for animals,
insects, and snakes.
Do not allow small children to play in the affected areas or with
materials that have been exposed to flood water.
Take photographs or make a video recording-and make written notes-describing
the damage prior to removal and as the removal process proceeds. This
documentation will be useful if you need to file claims later.
Basic clean-up procedures
After removing wet and soaked materials, wash down all surfaces
with disinfectant. One part of common household bleach (such as Clorox)
to five parts water will help you rid the structure of mildew and mold
and prevent their growth. Concrete and masonry wall surfaces can be hosed
down and then scrubbed using a standard garden-type sprayer to apply the
bleach mixture. Wash down all surfaces; wear appropriate gear such as
rubber gloves, face masks, and goggles (and afterward, wash your hands
with disinfectant before eating).
Mattresses and most upholstered items that are completely saturated
with contaminated water are not salvageable; follow local regulations
for disposal.
Foundations
Verify that the floodwaters have not deteriorated mortar joints
and weakened concrete block and masonry pier foundations.
Visually inspect the foundations both around the perimeter and
under the house. (Again, watch for displaced critters.) Check footings
to be sure mortar has not been washed out of joints between the bricks
and block.
If you find that mortar has been washed out, have a professional
check the damage. If a foundation still has adequate structural integrity,
the missing mortar can be replaced without dismantling the foundation.
Floors
Immediately remove the carpet and padding throughout the structure;
they harbor bacteria and hinder the drying process.
Vinyl, vinyl asbestos, and vinyl-composition tile may curl at the
edges and the adhesive may not keep secured to the floor, necessitating
likely removal. (All materials containing 1 percent or more asbestos fibers
are required by law to be removed and disposed of in accordance with EPA,
OSHA, and some state laws. Employ qualified personnel-failure to do so
may cost you a large fine!)
Other types of floor covering, such as clay or ceramic tile, generally
will weather flooding well. Be sure to check the subflooring, however;
if it doesn't dry satisfactorily, these types of flooring may need to
be removed as well.
Wood flooring and wood subflooring most likely will be damaged,
because absorbed water causes wood to swell. If not dried out rapidly
or adequately, the flooring will swell and buckle. To control costs, try
to dry out this flooring after removal of covering material; but be ready
to accept that it may need replacement.
Interior walls
Gypsum board (sheetrock) on walls that have been in contact with
water for longer than two hours most likely will require replacement,
not only to remove the damaged board but to expose wall structure so that
it can dry out. Waterlogged gypsum board left in place ultimately will
powder and mildew, causing unpleasant odors and providing an unacceptable
base for paint.
Remove gypsum board by cutting it horizontally at least 12 inches
above the high waterline and completely removing down to the floor.
Insulation in exterior and interior walls that has been immersed
in water must be removed. Saturation renders most insulation permanently
ineffective, and, if left in place, it can perpetuate high moisture conditions
destructive to wood, masonry, and metals.
Allow adequate time for complete drying out of your structure,
typically between one and six weeks, depending on the extent of the flood
and the ventilation and weather conditions during the drying-out period.
Do not install new materials until all existing surfaces are completely
dry. For instance, after removing the gypsum board and insulation from
the affected walls, it is absolutely vital to allow the framing and wall
cavities to dry thoroughly before installing new insulation or gypsum
wallboard.
Ceilings
Even though the water may not have reached the ceiling, the flood's
extreme humidity may trigger gypsum board to swell and pull loose from
the ceiling framing. Check the ceiling by pressing upward on it; if nailheads
appear on the surface, there most likely is damage. If so, at least renailing
and refinishing will be required, and total replacement may be necessary.
Check attic insulation; if it is moist, it may keep the ceiling from drying
out, and result in mildew. It the insulation is wet, it must be replaced.
Doors and cabinets
Delamination of plywood and doors will not appear for several days,
but will be obvious when the plywood or door begins to peel away from
the substrate. Solid wood or wood-panel doors have a better survival rate.
However, watch these, too, for swelling and subsequent shrinkage that
might cause them to crack.
Exterior walls
Brick veneer backed with water-resistant sheathing generally will
not be damaged if the weep holes (the slots near the bottom of the brick)
are open to allow for the water within the wall to drain out and the air
to enter and assist in drying the cavity. If weep holes are blocked with
debris or silt, clean them out. (Removal of single bricks at the base
of the wall every four feet will aid drying. If done properly, the mortar
can be cut around a brick and the brick saved for replacement. In some
extreme cases, brick(s) at the top of the wall may need to be removed-check
with a qualified professional.)
Open all perimeter vents in houses with elevated floors to maximize
cross-ventilation and air movement in the crawl space to help dry floor
joist and sheathing.
Ductwork systems
Ductwork systems need to be flushed thoroughly and disinfected
against bacteria and germs carried by floodwater.
Gas system
Water can collect in gas lines, causing the pilot light for appliances,
heaters, and water heaters to burn improperly and, in some cases, go out.
Gas can escape if there is a faulty valve or thermal couple. The gas system
within the structure should be checked, and appliances checked for proper
operation.
Electrical systems
Electrical systems should be thoroughly checked, especially if
the water rose above the wall outlets. Silt can collect in these and cause
short circuits. Also, check all light switches and light fixtures for
water if the floodwaters were high enough to reach them. A professional
should be called in if there is any question about the condition of the
electrical system.
Appliances
Do not attempt to use any motorized appliances that were below
flood level until they have been checked by qualified personnel.
Repainting
Stains will bleed through new paint unless covered with white shellac
or some other paint-type cover-up, such as KILZ. To avoid blistering and
peeling, be sure all surfaces are thoroughly dry before painting.
Copyright 2001 The American Institute of Architects.
All rights reserved.
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Reference |
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This information was complied on behalf of the AIA North Carolina,
115 West Morgan Street, Raleigh, NC, 27601, 919-833-6656,
with assistance from the AIA national component.
For specific advice on professional liability, consult with your
legal counsel and insurer.
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